详情

Karima Moyer-Nocchi,Chewing the Fat: An Oral History of Italian Foodways from Fascism to Dolce Vita, Perrysburg: Medea, 2015.

实质简介

Italy is experiencing a surge of gastronomic nostalgia, a yearning to recreate and relive the delectable rustic meals of yesteryear, of brimming chalices of wine and sauce-laden pasta. A return to the simple abundance of Italy’s past!

Ah, if only it were true. If there was a glorious yesteryear of Italian feasting, it was enjoyed only by society’s elite. As for standard, rustic fare, such meals bore little resemblance to what is now considered—even in Italy—traditional Italian food.

Determined to separate out the folklore from the fakelore and reveal the intriguing yet uncelebrated past of Italian foodways, food historian Karima Moyer-Nocchi interviewed Italian "ninetysomething" women from various walks of life, from charcoal-makers to countesses. Her travels spanned from the far north to the deep south, as well as Italy's former landholdings. All of the interviewees had lived through the harrowing years called the Ventennio fascista, the twenty-year reign of fascism in Italy, and were eager to have their final say.

What follows are eighteen remarkable oral narratives, each building upon the last to create a mosaic of Italian foodways, from the fascist era through to the post World War II boom, the “Dolce Vita.” Each woman contributes a recipe chosen specifically to reflect what food was like when she was growing up under Mussolini. The narratives are separated by astringent, yet entertaining essay briefs, illuminating various aspects of gastronomic history and daily life in fascist Italy.

Engrossing and engaging, Chewing the Fat gently debunks the myths of Italy’s gastronomic nostalgia industry, revealing a culture of food that is surprisingly different from the image most people have of Italian cuisine.

意大利正资历着一股好意思食怀旧潮：东谈主们渴慕重现和重温昔日那些适口的乡村餐食，渴慕回味盛满好意思酒的羽觞，和裹满酱料的意大利面。追想意大利昔时的质朴浑朴！

希望这是竟然。如若说意大利如实曾有过光泽的饮食盛况，那也只为社会精英所独享。至于普通的乡村餐食，与现时被合计是——以致介怀大利原土也被合计是——传统意大利好意思食的形象大相径庭。

为了将真确的民间传统与捏造的传统分别开来，揭暗意大利饮食文化鲜为东谈主知却天际有天的过往，食物历史学家卡丽玛·莫耶-诺基采访了来自五行八作的意大利"九旬老东谈主"，从烧炭工到女伯爵皆有。她的采访踪迹渊博意大利的最北端到最南端，以及意大利仍是的领地。统统受访者皆资历过令东谈主心悸的“法西斯统帅二十年”（Ventennio fascista），皆要紧地想要诉说她们临了的心声。

本书收录了十八个超卓的口述叙事，每个故事皆在前一个基础上延展，共同构建出一幅从法西斯本领到二战后"甜密生活"本领的意大利饮食图景。每位女性皆孝敬了一齐相配遴荐的菜谱，以反应她在墨索里尼统帅下成长本领的饮食情景。在这些叙事之间穿插着是非而富裕真谛的漫笔，论说了法西斯统帅下意大利的各个饮食历史面向和日常生活。

《细嚼慢咽》天际有天且引东谈主深念念，暄和地揭穿了意大利好意思食怀旧产业的种种据说，展现出一种与大无数东谈主对意大利好意思食印象迥然相异的饮食文化。

评述

A remarkable insight into the realities of Italian food. This book lays bare the multiple dimensions of Italian gastronomy: geography, politics, social background, education and economics. It is an eloquent dissection of the nuances of the world’s favorite cooking as well as a magical exercise in memory. A brilliant reconstruction of the kitchens and cookery (and much else besides) of a previous generation.

-Tom Jaine, Food writer, publisher, critic, and restaurateur

Moyer-Nocchi succeeds in conveying a world that needs to be remembered and appreciated in its complexity. There were no heroes or villains, just people struggling to survive. It is always important to know where we come from to have a more objective and informed vision of who we are.

-Fabio Parasecoli - Huffington Post

This is a book to read from cover to cover, as the carefully crafted structure reveals a much more complex narrative than just a few interviews with old ladies, and chats on past foodways. Karima Moyer-Nocchi is one of a new generation of historians intent on redressing the balance of Italian food history, putting cherished myths into proper perspective.

-Gillian Riley - author of The Oxford Companion to Italian Food

这是对意大利好意思食履行的越过瞻念察。本书揭示了意大利好意思食的多重维度：地舆、政事、社会配景、汲引和经济。这既是对寰宇最受接待的烹调体系轻朦拢别的雄辩判辨，亦然一次神奇的牵挂之旅。对上一代东谈主的厨房和烹调（以及更多方面）进行了精彩的重构。

——汤姆·杰恩（好意思食作者、出书东谈主、评述家和餐厅主）

莫耶-诺基收效地展现了一个需要被记得和以其复杂性被贯通的寰宇。那儿莫得强者或无赖，惟有为生计而蓬勃的东谈主们。了解咱们从何处来，对于咱们更客不雅、更理智地意志自我而言弥远要紧。

——法比奥·帕拉塞科利 - 《赫芬顿邮报》

这是一册值得重新读到尾的书，其悉心计议的结构揭示出远比与老配头们的访谈、对于往日饮食形势的谈天更为复杂的叙事。卡丽玛·莫耶-诺基是新一代历史学家中的一员，费力于从新谛视意大利食物历史，让东谈主们以安妥的视角看待那些抠门的据说。

——吉莉安·赖利 -《牛津意大利食物指南》作者

作者简介

A professor in the modern languages department at the University of Siena in Tuscany, Italy, Karima Moyer-Nocchi has made Italy her home for over twenty-five years. As an enthusiastic food historian, she travels extensively through Italy studying the social, economic, and cultural factors that characterize cuisine in each region of the country. She is a frequent lecturer in Food Studies both in Italy and abroad. The author presently resides in Città di Castello, Umbria, with her husband.

卡丽玛·莫耶-诺基是意大利托斯卡纳锡耶纳大学当代谈话系的教师，介怀大利生活高出25年。动作一位情切的食物历史学家开yun体育网，她介怀大利各地平日熟识，研究塑造该国各地区好意思食特点的社会、经济和文化身分。她经常介怀大利国表里进行食物研究方面的讲座。现时，作者与丈夫居住在翁布里亚大区的奇塔迪卡斯特洛。